Vercors traverse

23-02-2010 ►

The great winter traverse of the Vercors. From La Buffe at the far north of the massif to the Pied Ferré on Glandasse, this journey was a true change of scenery right on our doorstep.

Day 1: Around La Buffe.

The initial idea was to set off on foot from home and reach the Vercors plateau through the Mortier tunnel. In practice, the recent snowfall did not encourage us to cross the exposed funnel before the tunnel, especially as loaded as we were. After trying to take a TransIsère bus, which was full, the first day starts with a mundane drive up to Autrans, from where we set off... due north to reach La Buffe!

This first day will be a test day, during which the gear evolves a lot before settling into a configuration that will remain fairly stable for the rest of the trip: Mathieu starts by snapping both of the garden stakes that served as towing poles for his pulk (less than 1mm thick; seeing the size of the guy, no surprise!). The bivouac is set up in a magical clearing surrounded by tall conifers laden with snow. It is freezing cold.

Day 2: Heading south.

Having reached the northernmost point of the Vercors, we finally head due south. Plénouze, Charande: the idea is to stay on the ridge. Mathieu finds two nice ash branches to repair his pulk, a wood that turns out to be very well suited to the pulks' many tumbles: flexible and strong, ideal! The day unfolds in a very wintry atmosphere. Everything is frozen by the biting cold and the pulk glides along calmly (or almost) through this beautiful, sunlit Vercors. The cruise finds its rhythm. A few cross-country ski tracks bring the odd encounter; otherwise we are alone.

It's going well! Croix de Chabaud, La Molière... an epic descent to Les Jarrands. Oh yes, it is worth saying a word about the beauty's character: however charming a companion, the pulk turns into a rabid beast on the slightest sideways slope. Then begins a fierce fight against the fury of this now diabolical contraption! Every descent becomes an occasion for violent contortions to stop this fifty-kilo load from rolling. Very effective for keeping the attention of a ski tourer lulled by the steady gentle glide of his ski tips.

Resupply in Corrençon, then we set up our bivouac near the Champ de la Bataille. Tomorrow marks our entry into the Hauts Plateaux nature reserve. The weather is getting milder and bad weather is on its way...

Day 3: Entering the Hauts Plateaux.

Nous quittons définitivement la civilisation pour nous immerger plus profondément dans cette traversée. Le temps s'est dégradé et le brouillard semble vouloir nous accompagner. Cette ambiance ne fait que reforcer le sentiment de pénétrer le coeur du Vercors. Journée d'orientation en perspective. A la cabane de Carrette, nous rencontrons un randonneur en raquettes avec qui nous partagerons cette étape jusqu'à la Jasse du Play après avoir traversé le beau canyon des Erges. Nous ne planterons pas la tente, tenté par la chaleur du bon poelle à bois de la cabane.

Day 4: Cotton-wool plateaux.

This morning the cotton wool has thickened. In an intimate atmosphere we put on our skis for another day gliding gently across these mysterious plateaux. The GPS even comes in handy on Peyre Rouge to head back towards the Chaumailloux hut after we let the whiteout lull us. We arrive soaked; the stove makes us very happy and once again Aude, Mathieu and I share a lovely evening.

Day 5: Crossing Glandasse

The good weather is back. Today we go up a level, as we plan to reach the Châtillon hut. A day with a significant elevation gain for our pulks (500m).

It will be a wonderful day crossing vast expanses free of any tracks, climbing up to the Pié Ferré with lovely views over the Archiane cirque, whose warm colours contrast with the wintry atmosphere.

Mathieu treats us to a few more fine nordic skiing figures with his pulk over his head! Aude tears a skin on a discreet rocky spine. The descent to the hut is almost a pleasure despite the still heavily loaded pulks.

Day 6: Return

Last day of this timeless traverse. The feeling of a great journey is strong despite being so close to home! A short downhill stage awaits us to reach Châtillon-en-Diois. The weather is so-so and worsening, with a lot of wind. We nevertheless stay focused, because the descent through the forest with the pulk is likely to be sporty.

Moreover, we have to cross the nasty Col de la Raille, which has the delicacy of facing in a direction that favours big wind slabs. So: focused and quick, so as not to linger on this passage, which will probably become truly dangerous in the coming days with this strong wind. One by one we cross the col and quickly plunge into the forest for one last bushwhack before joining a forest track that suits us just fine.

Châtillon-en-Diois. We wait a few hours in a bar for the minibus. There is a lovely atmosphere among us all, a feeling of great sincerity and honesty of heart. Look, here comes our minibus...