A little tour in the Maurienne
Three days of climbing in the Maurienne, discovering some fine classic or more unusual spots.
With Aude.
A desire to climb, to discover and to travel. This little three-day trip around the Maurienne fulfilled it all. The beautiful Mussatto guidebook as bedside reading, from which two of the weekend's routes are taken.
After a late start from Grenoble, we head for the Pic de l'Aigle in the Cerces. We set off on La Princesse de Feu, a pretty, accessible route, though sometimes harshly graded. The bolts are spaced but well placed; nothing run-out. The beautiful wall reveals highly sculpted, even abrasive limestone and technical climbing on water pockets and vertical grooves.
The next day, off to the Grand Bec d'Etache above Bramans. Seen from the car park, this summit shows a sheer, knife-cut face. It is through this face that a route of fabulous steepness was recently (2006) put up, with a grade not exceeding 6b: Mi Piacce l'Albicocca. The protection needs supplementing; the belays are bombproof on two bolts plus a link, and there are a few bolts on passages that are hard to protect.
Very pleasant, juggy climbing in a hair-raising atmosphere! At first the rock inspires a certain mistrust, but it is in fact very solid. The walk-off descent down the west side is logical and convenient.
In the end, our third day gets a plan B. Faced with storm forecasts, we abandon the new route on the Bessanèse (Patriste) for a less Italian route near the Col de la Madeleine. The Tour de Flachère offers beautiful granite, and we combine the Monsieur Duss route on its buttresses with the Le Temps des Gitans route on the south face. Two abseils and a bit of walking punctuate this ascent.
In the end, the day took on a bit of a mountain feel, with a real summit and beautiful 3D climbing far from the classics.
See you soon, Maurienne!
Photo gallery...